May 21, 1988 - Mountaineering Fatality at Mount Blackburn
Members of a Japanese climbing team, S.O., 49 and T.M., 30, were in the process of descending from one climbing camp to another with two other climbers, on the 21st when a three-foot thick slab of ice broke loose 30 feet above them and caused an avalanche which swept down approximately 4,000' of vertical rock bands, ice falls and hanging glaciers. Expedition leader Y.T. was near the edge of the avalanche and was carried about 30' downslope before he was belayed to a stop by S.Y., the fourth climber. Y.T. was not injured.
The two climbers tried to reach their comrades but were unable to descend further than about 500' due to extremely hazardous conditions. They then descended to their base camp and unsuccessfully attempted to obtain assistance with their portable CB radio. The two were picked up by a scheduled air taxi the next day; the pilot advised park rangers at Gulkana of the incident, and a search was organized by rangers and Alaska state troopers. One body was seen at the terminus of the slide at 7,300', but hazardous conditions and steep slopes prohibited a landing. The troopers asked Parks Canada wardens from Kluane National Park to respond with their climbing team and a helicopter equipped for long line rescue. A recovery attempt was then made, but lowering clouds precluded helicopter evacuation. Rangers and wardens are currently standing by waiting for a break in the weather.
Although not mandatory, the climbers did not register or contact park rangers before the climb. They carried CB radios, but neither the park nor the state monitor CB frequencies.
June 24, 1988
88-116 - Wrangell-St. Elias - Climbing Fatalities
Location: Mount Blackburn
Four Japanese climbers were in the process of descending from one climbing camp to another on the 21st when a three-foot thick slab of ice broke loose 30 feet above them and caused an avalanche which swept 49-year-old S.O. and 30-year-old T.M. down approximately 4,000' of vertical rock bands, ice falls and hanging glaciers. Expedition leader Y.T. was near the edge of the avalanche and was carried about 30' downslope before he was belayed to a stop by S.Y., the fourth climber. Y.T. was not injured. The two climbers tried to reach their comrades, but were unable to descend further than about 500' due to extremely hazardous conditions. They then descended to their base camp and unsuccessfully attempted to obtain assistance with their portable CB radio. The two were picked up by a scheduled air taxi the next day; the pilot advised park rangers at Gulkana of the incident, and a search was organized by rangers and Alaska state troopers. One body was seen at the terminus of the slide at 7,300', but hazardous conditions and steep slopes prohibited a landing. The troopers asked Parks Canada wardens from Kluane National Park to respond with their climbing team and a helicopter equipped for long line rescue. A recovery attempt was then made, but lowering clouds precluded helicopter evacuation. Rangers and wardens are currently standing by waiting for a break in the weather.
Although not mandatory, the climbers did not register or contact park rangers before the climb. They carried CB radios, but neither the park nor the state monitor CB frequencies.